This is Athens

Fantastic view from our apartment in the Koukaki neighborhood of Athens. 

The Parthenon is the most visible building on top of the Acropolis (a fortified hill) but there are other monuments up there also.  

Aside from the view, our one-bedroom apartment has laundry and a large sunny terrace. 

It’s about a 15 minute walk up to the Parthenon or down to the Plaka neighborhood. 

Koukaki doesn’t have as many restaurants as some other areas but it has enough and it’s quiet.

We can see the Saronic Sea Gulf out the back.

We have done many of the usual tourist things: Acropolis Museum, National Archaeological Museum, Kerameikos Cemetery, city-center walking tour, Botanical Garden, and changing of the guard at the Parliament building. 

Ruins and small churches are everywhere. 

Museums and governmental buildings (library, university) are large, beautiful, and similar looking. 

Local Pentelic marble predominates (white/apricot)

Weather has been mixed overcast and sun with very little rain.

Accommodating the past

They found an entire ancient neighborhood when excavating for the Acropolis Museum. 

This portion of the museum has only recently been completed and available to visit. 

Not surprising but both above and below museums are very well done.

We toured the Acropolis and Museum with a guide. And, we chose a tour for the first entry at 8:00 a.m. We had great morning light on the monuments for our photos and a bit of time before the daily hoard of people ascended. 

Being an Evzone (Presidential Guard) is prestigious but not an option for everyone - minimum height requirement of 6’2”. There are specific historical meanings in every aspect of the uniform. 

Each step and gesture in the choreography for the changing of the guard reflect a part of Greece’s history.

One year of military service is compulsory for men in Greece.

Hadrian’s Gate 

Also on the Acropolis - Temple of Athena Nike with statues of Caryatids

These statues are recreations. Five of the originals are in the Acropolis Museum and one is in the British Museum (along with most of the frieze decorations from the Parthenon - commonly referred to as the “Elgin Marbles” or as the “Parthenon Marbles in more recent times).

Below is a rare original portion of the Parthenon’s decorative frieze that is in Greece. From 1801-1812 Lord Elgin of Scotland cut off every one that was not broken and shipped them home. They were eventually sold to the British Museum where they still reside. The original (apricot colored) one below was missed because it was amongst rubble on the site. The Acropolis Museum had to pay a copyright fee to the British Museum to get the specifications for making the white re-creations.

In this view of the Acropolis from the summit of nearby Philopappou Hill you can see structures besides the Parthenon. 

• Temple of Athena Nike - behind and to the left of the Parthenon
• Propylaea Gate - far left upper structure
• Odeon of Herodes Atticus - lower structure on the left. This is a functioning theater where musical concerts are held.
• Lycabettus Hill - looks like it is sitting on the Acropolis to the right of the Parthenon but probably about a mile away summit-to-summit.
• Theater of Dionysus - not really visible because it’s a ruin but it is in the lower right corner just below the two white rectangles

This is actually the third Parthenon. It was built in the 5th century BC. In the late 17th century AD when Greece was under the control of the Ottomans (Turks) the Venetians invaded. 

From the top of Philopappou Hill the Venetian’s cannon fired several successful shots at the Parthenon. A direct center hit was the most destructive because the Ottomans were using the Parthenon to store gunpowder.

Restoration of the Parthenon has been ongoing since the 1980s. The lighter colored parts are part of the restoration. Everything is the same local Pentelic marble and eventually the new pieces will weather and oxide to the apricot hue.

Hiked to the top of Lycabettus hill for the views on a somewhat hazy day. 

That’s the Parthenon behind us and off in the distance is the Saronic Gulf.

Cool view of the Golden Gate Bridge from the plane.